Stair type guide
Floating staircases — cantilevered steel
A floating staircase is the most demanding stair we build. Treads project horizontally from a wall with no visible support; structurally, every tread is a cantilever; aesthetically, the entire stair appears to defy gravity. The result, when it works, is the kind of architectural element that defines an entire room. Getting there requires coordination that has to start months before installation — at the framing stage, not the finish stage.
Critical: Floating stairs cannot be added late. The structural wall behind the stair has to be built specifically to support the cantilevered tread loads. If you are designing a home and want a floating stair, we need to be involved before the framer breaks ground.
How a floating stair actually works
Each tread is anchored to a steel armature that extends back into the supporting wall — the "wall pocket." The pocket is a built-up steel section (usually a heavy plate or HSS beam) that runs the full length of the stair, embedded in the framing. Each tread gets its own bracket welded or bolted to that beam, and the bracket projects out of the wall the depth of the tread. Drywall closes around the bracket, so all you see from the room side is the tread.
The structural challenge is that every tread creates a moment at the wall — the user's weight times the lever arm of the tread. That moment has to transfer through the bracket, into the wall beam, and through the wall beam back to the floor and roof structure. A 12-inch tread depth with a 90 kg person on the nose creates more force at the wall than people instinctively expect.
Wall pocket framing — the part nobody sees
The wall pocket is the entire engineering job. The visible stair is the easy part. Typical framing for a residential floating stair on a 14-step run:
- HSS 6×6×½ steel beam running the full stair length, embedded in the wall stud cavity
- Steel tube columns at the top and bottom of the beam, sized for the cumulative cantilever moments
- Engineered tie-back to the floor diaphragm above and the slab below
- Steel bracket plates welded to the beam at each tread location, project depth equal to the tread overhang
- Sleeve framing around each bracket for drywall transition
All of this gets built into the wall during framing, gets reviewed and signed off by the structural engineer, gets covered with drywall, and stays invisible for the life of the building.
Tread materials and finish
Most of our floating stair clients in Metro Vancouver pick solid hardwood treads — typically white oak or walnut at 2.5–3 inch thickness so the treads have visual presence. Stone treads (marble, basalt) come up on premium projects. Steel-clad treads with hardwood inserts are an option where the design wants a more industrial look.
What drives floating stair pricing
Floating stairs are the most cost-intensive stair type we build. The price is dominated by engineering, embedded structural steel, and installation precision — not by the visible parts. The key cost drivers are: the number of treads, tread material (hardwood vs stone), railing system (frameless glass is the most common and most expensive option), and the complexity of the wall pocket framing and coordination with the framer. A switchback configuration with a half-landing adds meaningfully over a straight run because of the additional structural steel and engineering. For a project-specific number, request a quote.
Lead time and coordination
From engagement to installed stair, plan 14–20 weeks. The work splits across three phases: structural integration during framing (week 1, then dormant), shop fabrication (weeks 8–12), and installation after drywall but before flooring (weeks 14–18). The single biggest reason floating stair projects go sideways is when the framer doesn't get the embedded structure right — which is why we do site walks during framing and provide stamped shop drawings for the wall pocket.
Who should choose a floating stair (and who shouldn't)
Floating stairs are the right answer for a specific set of projects. They are the wrong answer for others. Honest self-assessment before you commit saves money and frustration.
Good fits: New custom homes where the structural wall can be designed around the stair from the start. Major renovations where a wall is already being rebuilt. High-end commercial interiors (retail, restaurant, private office) with the budget to support the engineering. Projects where the stair is the architectural centrepiece and the budget reflects that.
Poor fits: Retrofits into existing finished walls. Budget-sensitive projects where a mono stringer would achieve most of the visual effect for a fraction of the cost. Egress stairs in commercial buildings. Projects with tight schedules — the coordination with framing puts the stair on the critical path.
Related reading
The mono stringer page covers the main alternative for modern residential stairs. The cost guide covers what drives pricing for floating stairs alongside other stair types. For the underlying code and process, start at the metal stair fabrication hub.
FAQs about floating stairs
What is a floating staircase?
A floating staircase has treads that appear to project from the wall with no visible support underneath. The structural reality is that each tread is anchored to a hidden steel armature embedded in the wall — a "wall pocket" — that cantilevers the load back into the building structure. Done right, it looks like the treads are growing out of the drywall.
Can a floating stair be retrofit into an existing wall?
Rarely, and never well. Floating stairs require a continuous structural element behind the drywall — typically a built-up steel beam or doubled studs with steel reinforcement — that runs the length of the stair and is engineered to take the cantilever moment from each tread. That has to be installed during framing, before drywall goes up. Trying to retrofit one means opening the wall, structurally rebuilding it, and re-finishing — at which point you have spent more than a new build install.
How much does a floating staircase cost in Vancouver?
Floating stairs are the most expensive stair type we build because the cost driver is the engineering and the embedded wall structure — not the visible part. A simple mono stringer stair with the same tread count costs roughly half as much because the structural work is less complex. The final price depends on tread count, tread material, railing system, and the complexity of the wall pocket framing. <a href="/request-a-quote/">Contact us for a project-specific quote</a>.
Are floating stairs safe?
Yes, when engineered and built correctly. Each tread is a structural cantilever sized by an engineer to take the BC Building Code live load (1.9 kPa for residential, more for commercial) with a deflection limit of L/360. The wall pocket framing is designed for the moment at each tread. We have built dozens of floating stairs across Metro Vancouver and they perform exactly like any other engineered structural element.
What about the railing on a floating stair?
Railings on floating stairs are usually frameless glass or thin steel rod. Glass is the most common — it visually disappears, which preserves the floating effect. The glass panels need to be structurally laminated and the standoff hardware has to be engineered for the lateral guard load (0.7 kN/m for residential per BCBC). The glass typically anchors into the side of each tread or into a continuous channel along the wall side.
How deep can a floating tread cantilever?
Practical tread depths for residential floating stairs run 10–14 inches. At 14 inches, the cantilever moment at the wall connection is meaningful — roughly 120 kg × 36 cm (the centre of a loaded tread) = about 420 N·m per tread, and the wall pocket structure has to handle that plus safety factor. Deeper treads are possible but require proportionally heavier embedded structure. Going beyond 16 inches usually doesn't make sense unless the design has no alternative.
What is the wall finish around the treads?
The drywall closes around each tread bracket with a sleeve detail that hides the bracket entirely. The finish is standard Level 5 drywall with a small return at each tread penetration. Some projects use a tall continuous plinth or a stone/tile feature wall instead of drywall — both work, but they add coordination requirements between the fabrication and the finish trades. We work through these details during shop drawings.
Can floating stairs be installed over concrete walls?
Yes, and sometimes it's actually easier than installing over a wood-framed wall. Each tread bracket anchors directly to the concrete with epoxy-set anchors or post-installed rebar connections, sized by the engineer for the cantilever load. The concrete has to have enough edge distance and depth to develop the anchors, but in most residential basement walls and commercial tilt-up walls, there's plenty to work with.
How do the treads connect to the wall bracket?
Each tread has a steel plate or square tube element either bolted or welded into the back edge that slides over the wall bracket and is fastened with concealed bolts. The connection detail is engineered to transfer the full cantilever moment and vertical load. Most of our floating stair treads use a steel sleeve inside the hardwood that the bracket slides into — this makes installation clean and allows the treads to be installed after the wall finish is complete.
What kind of foundation does the bottom tread need?
The bottom tread on a floating stair usually sits directly on the finished floor or on a small concealed base. Because the loads are transferring horizontally back to the wall beam through every tread, the bottom of the stair doesn't need to carry the full load of the stair — just its own local reaction. This is part of what gives floating stairs their signature look.
Are floating stairs noisy?
They can be, if the installation has any play in the bracket connections. Well-built floating stairs are silent — the brackets are torqued tight, the tread-to-bracket connections use isolating washers where metal would meet metal, and the wall pocket structure is properly tied into the supporting building frame. Creaking almost always traces back to an under-torqued connection or a structural element that wasn't fully tied in.
Can you install a floating stair if the wall is not the one we originally planned?
Changing which wall carries the floating stair during construction is possible but expensive. It usually means ripping out the partially installed wall structure, re-engineering the cantilever loads for the new wall location, fabricating a new wall pocket steel, and re-framing. Change requests after the original wall is structurally complete add significant cost depending on what is already built. Locking the design before framing starts is by far the cheaper path.
Do floating stairs work for commercial or public buildings?
They can, but the engineering is more demanding because commercial live loads are higher (4.0 kPa vs 1.9 kPa residential), and commercial egress code sometimes requires handrails and guards that conflict with the floating aesthetic. We have built floating stairs for restaurants, retail, and private office spaces where the live load is manageable and the stair is not an egress stair. Main egress stairs in commercial buildings are almost always a different typology.
Get in touch
Need a fabrication quote?
Send drawings, photos, or even a rough description. We will review what you have and follow up with a quote or a conversation about next steps.